Fellows' Reflections: Emma Schneck

I write this now approaching the 9-month-mark of my fellowship here in Morocco. It’s been difficult to comprehend how the time has passed so quickly, and it's strange realizing I only have a few months left in the country. Even though I’ve now been living in Morocco for quite some time, I haven’t run out of new things to learn about or discover. Between new projects at work, darija lessons, and the reawakening of life in Casablanca, there’s constantly something new to encounter.

A recent highlight of mine was celebrating Ramadan here in Morocco. I fasted the entirety of Ramadan, which brought on a new set of challenges and experiences. Though I don’t consider myself religious, I chose to fast as a way to support my Moroccan roommate and be able to better experience the cultural traditions of Ramadan. While much of “outside” life was closed due to COVID-related curfews and government restrictions, Ramadan festivities made our daily routines special from home. From rushing to prepare the table for iftar with a combination of traditional and wildly un-Moroccan foods (who knew that sushi and msemen, a Moroccan-style flatbread, could ever belong on the same table?) to quietly taking in the sunset from our balcony while waiting for the call to prayer, Ramadan was full of particularly memorable moments.

Ramadan ended with Eid al-Fitr, and I had the opportunity to visit my roommate’s hometown for a traditional Eid with her parents. We travelled to Taza, a beautiful small city nestled in the Atlas Mountains, and I was immediately struck by how relaxed and cozy the region felt. Seeing the streets full of people laughing and enjoying their holiday was really comforting, and definitely a contrast to the bustle of Casablanca.

At my roommate’s childhood home, I helped her mom cook tagine, set up the table with cookies and sweets, and prepared mint tea. We broke our fast with the largest assortment of almond sweets I had ever seen, and spent the day leisurely meandering between cafés. That morning, my roommate and her family surprised me with my “first Ramadan present” – a beautiful traditional djellaba.

I often joke that I’ve found my own little Moroccan family here, but there is a lot of truth behind that phrase. I am so fortunate to have found people so welcoming and supportive here in Morocco, and I owe a lot of my experiences here to their hospitality. I’m really thankful to be able to continue learning about Morocco – whether it be through language, food, or celebrations like Ramadan. As life in Morocco keeps changing alongside COVID restrictions, I can’t wait to see what the next few months hold in store.